Dodging Monkeys at Swayambhunath

Noah and monkey University of Montana journalism student Noah Epps photographs a monkey at Swayambhunath on May 14, 2026. I was surprised how close we could get to them, but a longer lens would have been nice.

Text and photos by HENRY DOELLINGER

“Homocidal maniacs.” The description of monkeys from the University of Montana’s travel nurse rang through my head as our group sat on board the NTNC’s bus headed for Swayambhunath, the iconic Buddhist temple, also known for its food-conditioned rhesus macaques.

I couldn’t picture what this excursion would entail, and, equipped with only a 35mm lens, I wasn’t sure what photographs I would be able to make. My first impression of the UNESCO World Heritage Site was the crowds. It was packed, and full of more tourists than I had seen in any of our previous days in Kathmandu. 

The macaques skirted through the crowd more efficiently than the people, and we tried to give them distance. The 360-degree dodging act reminded me of walking through a haunted house as a kid, less scary, but you constantly tried to avoid props hanging from the walls. 

Not long into our exploration I grew more comfortable with the monkeys, and decided to get closer to photograph them as they sat against the backdrop of the city. The first one I held my camera to paused for a second and then rushed towards me. I quickly pulled back as two men laughed to my side. I was a bit more cautious after that. 

Perhaps the most notable aspect of the animals for me was their willingness to consume every aspect of litter. I watched as two licked the remainder of an Extreme Energy Drink, and then proceeded to bite off chunks of the aluminum can before scampering away. You could tell they were the locals, well conditioned to the flow of traffic and occasional hand feeding. 

Small monkey eating
A monkey eats corn at the base of prayer wheels at the Swayambhunath in Kathmandu on May 14, 2026. Many of the monkeys often stay near the rows of prayer wheels, possibly in an effort to receive food from visitors.
Prayer flags
Prayer flags fill the trees along the stairs to the hilltop Swayambhunath on May 14, 2026. Some of our group’s first interactions with the animals was on this trail, where they sat alongside vendors.
A stupa
Swayambhunath stupa stands at the center of a hilltop, surrounded by prayer wheels, monks, monkeys, dogs and tourists. Most of our time was spent circling the base of the monument, as monkeys darted and jumped around the stone walkways.
Monkeys lounging
The view from Swayambhunath overlooks Kathmandu. As we walked along the edge, I peered past the railing and was shocked by how many monkeys occupied the hillside – more than were walking with the tourists around the stupa. I later found this vantage point, where a number of the monkeys seemed to be more relaxed, away from the commotion of temple visitors.
Noah and monkey
University of Montana journalism student Noah Epps photographs a monkey at Swayambhunath on May 14, 2026. I was surprised how close we could get to them, but a longer lens would have been nice.
a monkey
An adult monkey sits on a railing at Swayambhunath on May 14, 2026. The adults were usually calmer and easier to photograph, but also much scarier. I had the feeling that they could grab on to me or my camera at a moment’s notice, but oftentimes they would jump to the safety of the hillside if they felt bothered.

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